Monday, June 13, 2011
The Shanghai ghetto, formally known as the Restricted Sector for Stateless Refugees (無国籍難民限定地区 mukokuseki nanmin gentei chiku?), was an area of approximately one square mile in the Hongkou District of Japanese-occupied Shanghai, where about 20,000 Jewish refugees were relocated to by the Japanese-issued Proclamation Concerning Restriction of Residence and Business of Stateless Refugees after having fled from Nazi Germany, Austria, Czechoslovakia, Hungary, Romania, Poland, and Lithuania before and during World War II.
The refugees were settled in the poorest and most crowded area of the city. Local Jewish families and American Jewish charities aided them with shelter, food and clothing. The Japanese authorities increasingly stepped up restrictions, but the ghetto was not walled and the local Chinese residents, whose living conditions were often as bad, did not leave.
We would be taking a bit of a detour to the Fashion Mall for lunch at the Asijen Noodle Restaurant. I am hoping that my fav is still on the menu here. If not… oh well, I will find something else. We are definitely getting our exercise this week. (Note to self: do not try to take a short cut… it never works out!)
We have a list of things to do and only 3 days to do them in. So we had decided to go to the Jewish Settlement area. Bailey had been learning about WWII and what happened to the Jews, so she was curious about this area. I had also been curious so this seemed like a good time to check it out. If time permitted we would go to YuYuan Market.
Don’t they look just darling!!! Don’t be fooled… there is mischief lurking behind those angelic faces!!!
And we are off… the kids are getting to be pros with the metro. But today, Michael was not able to board and was left behind. So we all got off at the next station and waited for Michael. If somebody had to be in that situation, I was glad it was him and not one of the kids… it could have caused a bit panic.
We had printed out all the maps and directions, but when we got to the street we were still not 100% sure which direction to go. So we walked a bit until we got our bearing. There were several people on the street that wanted to help, but they sent us down a direction that I knew was not right. But we finally got our bearings and set off.
We passed a historical building that was currently a police station. The original use… a prision. Pretty interesting architecture.
The map said go 500 meters… it sure seemed like a good ways to the museum, but at least this is a part of Shanghai that we had never been to, so we were exploring.
The apartment buildings you see lurking in the background was part of the Jewish ghetto.
The Shanghai ghetto, formally known as the Restricted Sector for Stateless Refugees (無国籍難民限定地区 mukokuseki nanmin gentei chiku?), was an area of approximately one square mile in the Hongkou District of Japanese-occupied Shanghai, where about 20,000 Jewish refugees were relocated to by the Japanese-issued Proclamation Concerning Restriction of Residence and Business of Stateless Refugees after having fled from Nazi Germany, Austria, Czechoslovakia, Hungary, Romania, Poland, and Lithuania before and during World War II.
The refugees were settled in the poorest and most crowded area of the city. Local Jewish families and American Jewish charities aided them with shelter, food and clothing. The Japanese authorities increasingly stepped up restrictions, but the ghetto was not walled and the local Chinese residents, whose living conditions were often as bad, did not leave.
As World War II intensified, the Nazis stepped up pressure on Japan to hand over the Shanghai Jews. Warren Kozak describes the episode when the Japanese military governor of the city sent for the Jewish community leaders. The delegation included Amshinover rabbi Shimon Sholom Kalish. The Japanese governor was curious: "Why do the Germans hate you so much?"
"Without hesitation and knowing the fate of his community hung on his answer, Reb Kalish told the translator (in Yiddish): "Zugim weil mir senen orientalim — Tell him [the Germans hate us] because we are Orientals." The governor, whose face had been stern throughout the confrontation, broke into a slight smile. In spite of the military alliance, he did not accede to the German demand and the Shanghai Jews were never handed over.”
"Residences, Businesses of City's Stateless Refugees Limited to Restricted Sector". (Shanghai Herald newspaper, February 18 1943)
According to another rabbi who was present there, Reb Kalish' answer was "They hate us because we are short and dark-haired." Orientalism was not likely to have been said because the word is an Israeli academic term in modern Hebrew, not a word in classical Yiddish or Hebrew.
On November 15, 1942, the idea of a restricted ghetto was approved. On February 18, 1943, the Japanese authorities declared a "Designated Area for Stateless Refugees", ordering those who arrived after 1937 to move their residences and businesses into the one-square-mile area within three months, by May 15. The stateless refugees needed permission from the Japanese to dispose of their property; others needed permission to move into the ghetto. While the ghetto had no barbed wire or walls, a curfew was enforced, the area was patrolled, food was rationed, and everyone needed passes to enter or leave the ghetto.
According to Dr. David Kranzler,
As we walked through the area, I could not believe that so many people were crammed into such a small area. But I guess when faced with a choice between certain death in Nazi Germany and living in crowded conditions with no bathrooms and sharing a small space with other families… I would make the same decision.
After a sobering look into the past, we moved on to the YuYuan Gardens and Market area of the Old Towne district of Shanghai.
Another subway ride down for the troops!!!
Made into a rounded walled city in 1553 to fend off Japanese pirates, the Old Town of Shanghai displays the richness of Ming and Qing architecture and the vibrancy of traditional Shanghai street life. Some call this Shanghai's "Chinatown" because of the traditional atmosphere, though the bright visages of Colonel Sanders and neon lights lining the narrow alleys add a modern touch. Considered unhealthily overcrowded, dirty and smelly by foreigners during the concession era, this was the one place that the Chinese could call their own in Shanghai.
Today the Old City is one of the few historic tourist highlights in a city that's all about modernity. One of the best ways to enter this area is from the northern gate from Renmin Road and Lishui Road. Walk south on Lishui past the new park underneath a massive gate straddling the road.
Some streets in the Old City are more understated than others, explore the sidewalk shops and lanes – quiet shopping opportunities abound. Small niches filled with clay kettles, glazed teacups and all sorts of trinkets line the walls in small stores, and antiques and antique replicas lure collectors and those stumped for souvenirs. Posters of 1930's era beauties to simple peasant art vie for your attention and cash. Parts of this area remain residential, it's easy to get lost in the maze of long tangs while walking past residents washing vegetables at outdoor sinks, toddlers playing hide and seek, and old men hunch over a game of Chinese chess.
Today the Old City is one of the few historic tourist highlights in a city that's all about modernity. One of the best ways to enter this area is from the northern gate from Renmin Road and Lishui Road. Walk south on Lishui past the new park underneath a massive gate straddling the road.
Some streets in the Old City are more understated than others, explore the sidewalk shops and lanes – quiet shopping opportunities abound. Small niches filled with clay kettles, glazed teacups and all sorts of trinkets line the walls in small stores, and antiques and antique replicas lure collectors and those stumped for souvenirs. Posters of 1930's era beauties to simple peasant art vie for your attention and cash. Parts of this area remain residential, it's easy to get lost in the maze of long tangs while walking past residents washing vegetables at outdoor sinks, toddlers playing hide and seek, and old men hunch over a game of Chinese chess.
To enter the main nerve of Old Town and visit the Ming era Yu Garden - also called "Yuyuan Garden", look for one of the many small entrances that lead into the central garden area. The dark narrow lanes are towered over with a mish-mash of Chinese architecture and modern styling. Commercialism is the word of the day; it's a modern version of an old bustling market –with the added kick the Shanghainese throw into making money. Different snacks and trinkets are available. Tasty goodies include sweet sticky rice candies, grilled sausages and assorted fried kebabs (check out the fried swallows). Shanghai is known for its steamed meat dumplings and the most famous in Shanghai are found in the Yu Garden shopping complex. Just off the central pond, this vendor is hard to miss, just look for the long line of salivating people. The dumplings are made on the spot and steamed to juicy perfection in a few minutes.
Like a green aquatic gem ensconced in a shell, the lake in the center of the market complex features a nine-bend bridge where locals and tourists alike all compete for the best photo opportunity. Fat fish swim lazily underneath the bridge, but come alive into a feeding frenzy whenever people throw in some food.
Across the bridge is the famed Huxinting Teahouse. This massive structure dominates the Yu Garden skyline, with massive upturned eaves; this building was originally built in 1784 and became a teahouse just before the turn of the 19th century. The restaurant inside the five sided structure is as famous as the dignitaries that have poked their chopsticks into the restaurant's rice bowls. Pictures of Jiang Zemin, Queen Elizabeth II and the Clintons mingling with the staff hang on the walls.
Across the bridge is the famed Huxinting Teahouse. This massive structure dominates the Yu Garden skyline, with massive upturned eaves; this building was originally built in 1784 and became a teahouse just before the turn of the 19th century. The restaurant inside the five sided structure is as famous as the dignitaries that have poked their chopsticks into the restaurant's rice bowls. Pictures of Jiang Zemin, Queen Elizabeth II and the Clintons mingling with the staff hang on the walls.
We would be taking a bit of a detour to the Fashion Mall for lunch at the Asijen Noodle Restaurant. I am hoping that my fav is still on the menu here. If not… oh well, I will find something else. We are definitely getting our exercise this week. (Note to self: do not try to take a short cut… it never works out!)
The Plaza outside the mall has great fountains. They just happened to be going when we finished lunch. Perfect back drop for a family photo opt.
The kids were totally taken with the fish.
Their eyes are glued on a remote control helicopter…” I want it MawMaw!!” They wanted it bad too!!!
The girls were really into the bargaining. They became pretty good at it. But they loved the market and bought a few things to take home!
Moving ever closer to the subway and the ride home. Austin is ‘going down fast’ and everyone else is pooped out too. It has been a busy day and lots of walking… yet again. (I did warn them about the walking) It looks like a Papa Johns’s night for sure!
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